What is FHA HUD Engineered Foundation Certification for Manufactured Homes?
An engineer’s FHA HUD foundation certification is required by lenders for manufactured homes. The main lenders for manufactured homes are VA, FHA, or USDA. Moreover, these services include an on-site inspection of the home. They will assess compliance with the requirements of HUD-7584 (Guidebook 4930.3G) Permanent Foundations Guide for Manufactured Housing, dated 1996.
After an inspection, providing the home complies, the engineer issues a certified letter of compliance with a Professional Engineer seal. On the other hand, if found out of compliance you will receive a letter stating the findings. This letter will let you know exactly what is needed for your home to be brought into compliance.
What Is The Purpose of Getting This Done?
Engineering firms like Hayman can inspect your home for compliance with HUD-7584. If found in compliance they will issue you a foundation certification. If not, they will recommend upgrades to bring your home into compliance.
In 1992 Hurricane Andrew than the Northridge earthquake in 1994 thousands of federally funded manufactured homes were destroyed. As a result, the foundations were found to be inadequate for high winds and seismic events. Thus, in 1996 the federal Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) issued HUD-7584 to create a higher standard for manufactured home foundations.
In most cases, HUD-7584 exceeds the requirements of most local and state jurisdictions setting a “high benchmark” to qualify for federal funding. Although this requirement does not apply to conventional bank mortgages or cash purchases, it does make good sense for your manufactured home.
Who Pays for Inspections and or Repairs?
Usually, the lender will require that the buyer pays for the inspection. However, in cases of non-compliance, it is typically the Seller’s responsibility to pay for any corrections needed.
Generally, the remedies vary in cost. However, in our experience homes are insufficiently braced for wind and seismic. Repairs must be made to their foundations for earthquake-resistant bracingor more tie-downs.
The Advantages for Sellers to Get Foundation Certifications Ahead of Selling
The benefit for the seller is this, listing your home as eligible for VA, FHA, or USDA financing. When buyers are made aware that your home meets all requirements for financing, they are more inclined to begin negotiations. Obviously, this is also a great incentive to both the buyer and the real estate agent.
Did you know the pit set manufactured home is a relatively new concept? We have watched the manufactured home industry evolve over the years. Beginning with tin can trailers placed in parks to beautiful custom family homes. This viable housing transformation began when congress enacted the 1994 “Permanent Foundation Code for Manufactured Homes.”
By enacting this code in 1994 it has instigated the pit set manufactured home aiming to make a manufactured home look like a house. Although there are many ways to accomplish this, I am going to be discussing our 20-year journey to perfecting it. Yes, we began in 2000 mindful that the manufactured home industry needed a product to help the longevity of their home.
Reason Why to Pit Set A Manufactured Home
Firstly, let us discuss the reasons for envisioning the best way to pit set a manufactured home. We will need to go back to the 1980s when we were installing manufactured homes. These homes were changing to offer wood siding and site-built features. Therefore, we began to see the need for a pit setting.
What Are the Advantages of Pit Setting?
A customer posted this about DURASKIRT™ on Instagram.
When we say pit set, we are meaning that the soils are excavated so that the blocking is set down into the ground. The advantages are obvious, like eliminating steps into the home and energy savings. Though, there were two drawbacks associated with pit setting a manufactured home. The shortcomings being higher costs and groundwater.
The Use of Wrong Products
Mainly the cost associated with pit setting a manufactured home was above many budgets. So, the industry began trying to curb these costs by using materials like pressure-treated wood skirting. Some have tried using the Hardie panel which quickly deteriorated allowing rodent intrusion. Obviously, these products were found to be terrible ideas.
For discernible reasons, concrete skirting has taken over the pit set manufactured home market. Primarily, because the concrete does not rot and when done right keeps rodents from invading. So, let us talk about the issues with concrete skirting.
Types of Concrete Skirting
1. Stem-wall
What is stem-wall concrete skirting? Stem wall concrete skirting is when you pour a concrete wall around the perimeter of the manufactured home. Clearly, the stem-wall needs a footing for support adding time and money to your project. The main benefit to a stem-wall is that it is strong, lasting, and makes a manufactured home look like a house.
In Opposition, since manufactured homes are mainly supported internally, this is still a skirt. A very costly skirting that also needs a well-constructed crawl space and Requires filling the gap from the top of the wall to the home. If these two things are not addressed properly the home will not be rodent-proof.
Pros: Stem-Wall Skirting
Cons: Stem-Wall Skirting
Strong
Costly
Longevity
Extending the building schedule.
Makes the manufactured home look like a house.
Requires filling the gap from the top of the wall to the home.
Eliminates steps into the home.
Moving the home in the future.
Crawl space may or may not be constructed to prevent rodent intrusion.
Needs a footing.
No warranty.
If a 6-sack concrete mix is used it is considered waterproof. Otherwise, a bituminous layer painted on the outside of the wall is needed for waterproofing.
2. Concrete Block Skirting to Pit Set A Manufactured Home
Block skirting on a manufactured home.
Concrete block skirting is also a good way to skirting a manufactured home. The benefits are obviously like that of a stem-wall although easier to move the home when it becomes necessary. The drawback especially using split-faced is sealing the gap from the top of blocks to the bottom of the home.
Similarly, the crawl space, being an entry point to rodents must be constructed well. Identically to a stem wall, a block requires a good foundation for support. Conversely, block walls tend to crack, and being porous can grow moss and leak groundwater. Too, a bituminous layer is needed. The skirting will need to be painted on the outside and being more porous usually requires more material than a stem wall.
Pros: Concrete Block Skirting
Cons: Concrete Block Skirting
Strong
Costly
Longevity
Extending the building schedule.
Eliminates steps into the home.
Requires filling the gap from the top of the wall to the home.
Moving the home in the future.
Crawl space may or may not be constructed to prevent rodent intrusion.
Needs a footing.
No warranty.
Requires a bituminous layer painted on the outside of the wall for waterproofing. Due to being very porous, it usually requires more material than a stem wall.
Looks like a manufactured home.
3. DURASKIRT™ Concrete Skirting
You can place back-fill up to 6″ down from Belly-band or in this photo 6″ below the white metal drip cap. DURASKIRT™ meets the standard for foundation certification found in the HUD-7584 Permanent Foundation code.
DURASKIRT™ concrete skirting is a well-thought-out and planned product. The reason why is simple. DURASKIRT™ has been planned and proven for more than two decades by people that know the problems and solutions for the manufactured home industry well.
Indeed, the lower costs are attributed to both speed of installation and more stably priced materials. With both expenses of labor and material costs factored in DURASKIRT™ will always be a better value. Besides, the lower costs of having a warranty, no rodent intrusion, and making your manufactured home look like a house is important and sets DURASKIRT™ apart.
Finally, look at this recap and you’ll agree. DURASKIRT™ checks all the boxes.
Pros: DURASKIRT™ Concrete Skirting
Cons: DURASKIRT™ Concrete Skirting
Much lower cost.
Long-lasting
Eliminates steps into the home.
Does not require filling the gap at the top.
Easily take off to repair panels or move home. Reusable.
No footing required.
Has warranty.
Poured with more than 6-sack concrete which is considered waterproof.
Makes a manufactured home look like a house.
Crawlspace fitted to prevent rodent intrusion.
Speeds schedule.
Strong
Keeping Ground Water Out
Like I alluded to above groundwater can be a drawback. This definitely depends on your land for many reasons. The point is to be mindful there is a danger so you can design a proper solution. I will be addressing this in greater detail in a future blog so sign up so you can stay informed.
Mobile home setup is less challenging if you follow these simple footsteps. Additionally, be mindful that safety is key which includes doing the job right. Moreover, whether purchasing your home from a dealership, factory direct or moving the home to a new location the home comes with an installation manual. However, the manual may not be available for used homes so you will need to use your states mobile home setup prescriptive guidebook.
Installation Manuals
Keeping in mind understanding installation manuals or prescriptive method guidebooks takes regular training. Therefore, your state requires classes for mobile home installers with initial training and periodic course updates. Not to mention, dealerships generally provide professional installations accomplished professionals when purchasing their homes. Nevertheless, I advise finding a professional mobile home setup contractor whenever possible.
Footstep One – Permits
Applying for permits for moving and or setting up a new or used mobile home is required. So, finding your local county, city or burrow’s building department or land use office is mandatory. If you’re doing this within a mobile home park you need to consult the park manager.
Footstep Two – Site Preparation
Preparing your property for your new home is termed “site prep.” Site prep consists of leveling the ground (groundwork), installing cable TV, phone, electrical, gas, water and sewer lines. In the case your site does not already have these services it will be necessary for you to have a licensed professional add them.
Footstep Three – Foundation
Establishing the base for a mobile home setup is key. Moreover, after establishing grade in good bearing soils it’s time for constructing the foundation. Although there are many manufactured home foundation optionsto choose from, I will only mention one here.
Still, I feel the best option is using a compacted crushed gravel pad of at least 4” thickness with a proprietary earthquake / wind tie-down system (step seven). Additionally, because of the speed and durability of this option, after the compacting the gravel you’re ready to bring the home on site. Furthermore, this manufactured home foundation option is accepted in most if not all jurisdictions.
Footstep Four – Mobile Home Step- Spotting the Mobile Home
Next is spotting the mobile home on your gravel pad. Now the fun begins and depending upon your homes’ new site you may or may not need a crawler. In other words, a crawler helps bring each piece of a mobile home into place from the closet location a tractor/truck can get.
Furthermore, sometimes it may be miles away navigating hills, bushes, trees and other obstacles. If navigating over dips or gullies you will need a good supply of cribbing. Finally, care needs to be taken so that the home and workers are safe.
Footstep Five – Jacking, Blocking, Tie-downs & Connecting
A mobile home setup using the prescriptive guide book.
Now that the home is in place you can begin the blocking and tie-down process. This process consists of installing blocks, shims and wedges at intervals following the manufacturers manual according to the proper snow load. I do not recommend steel jack stands because they can rust away.
Also, I need to point out that the blocking is different for perimeters, beams and marriage lines. Too, are calculated load points on the marriage lines where open spaces occur and requiring more support. Not to mention, while blocking the home you need to remove the tires and axles (step six).
Important for mobile home setup is connecting the home (double, triples & pods) to the ground. Indeed, this is done by following the instruction manual using hardware sent by the factory. Particularly the roof, walls and floors need lagged together so they become one functioning unit.
Using cribbing, jacks and rolling hardware bring the home up steadily to the elevation you need. Also, consider the sewer drainage making sure you have adequate fall. Likewise, making sure home does not encroach into the minimum properties’ setbacks.
Now begin lowering the home onto the block stands you previously laid out in the correct sequences according to the manufactures’ specifications. Moreover, considering the snow load as these effects the blocking concentration.
Footstep Six – Removing Tires, Axles and Hitch(es)
Removing tires, axles and hitch(es) is accomplished while blocking the home. The tires and axles are recycled while the hitch(es) are removed and set back under the home. It is not a good idea to permanently remove the hitches form the home unless of course the home is setting on a basement.
Footstep Seven – Earthquake Resistant Bracing Systems
In most modern home setups this is a required step by lending institutions. As a matter of fact, there are several types of Earthquake Resistant Bracing Systemson the market today. However, many of these systems do not meet HUD Permanent Foundation Code Guidelines and cannot be used for permanent setups. So, be careful which one you choose.
Footstep Eight – Attaching Utilities
There are six common utilities. They are sewer/septic, gas or propane, electricity, water, cable, and phone. Normally water, gas, sewer/septic will need permits and fees paid before installing them. What’s more, is they will need to be inspected for safety. All work and inspections must be done before proceeding to step nine.
Footstep Nine – Interior Floor Alignment
Quality control during a mobile home setup is vitally important. To this end, checking the interior floor of the home to ensure the floor is level. In all areas where the floor is not level, use the jack to ease the load on the foundation pier. Accomplish this by placing wedges or shims between pier and undercarriage of the mobile home to correct the issue. What’s more is keeping an eye on the floor alignment during the process of blocking can save time.
Footstep Ten – Skirting / Underpinning
The final stage of the manufactured homes’ setup is adding skirting or underpinning. Additionally, knowing ahead of time which skirting you’re using is helpful so you can plan the blocking accordingly. If you’re using DURASKIRT™you should block the home at 31” from rim-joist to ground or concrete pad.
Now that you have read how the setup procedure works on a manufactured home you probably want to hire a professional setup crew like YOUR NAME HERE.
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